Vaduz - the capital of the world's second smallest country, was all pomp and show, with farmers herding their dapper cows through the city, during my visit in September 2021. The world has a strange way of reminding you of your roots. It is not unusual to see cows being so celebrated in India either, but in Europe, this was outlandish. Nevertheless, the festivities were vibrant and enjoyable. Having had no idea what was going on, I decided to delve a little into the cultural history, and learnt that it happened to be the annual Alps Descent Festival! In fact, both Switzerland and Liechtenstein are known to celebrate this event.
Over the last week of summer, in the different municipalities of Liechtenstein, cows are guided down from higher altitudes to local barns by their farmers, for the winter. In summers though, herds of alpine cows are out grazing nutritionally diverse, high-altitude pastures, to bless their home country with superlative alpine cheese. And in the process, some of these intrinsic hikers conquer mountain trails of upto a few 1000 mtrs on their bare hooves.
My friend and I decided to hike the Panoramaweg trail to the Sareiserjoch peak and the trail markers were redundant. We started at the trailhead in the sleepy little mountain town of Malbun and soon enough, we were following manure-filled tracks that pointed us in the right direction. The cows of the local municipality were yet to observe the Alps Descent festival, and we were lucky to meet them on our way up. Navigating some seemingly angry cows, that were busy relishing a hearty breakfast in the lush meadows around, was a surefire way of adding some adrenaline to the serene sight of the first rays of the sun illuminating the Ratikon mountains.
Amid the sound of jangling cowbells, we continued our climb and by the end of the hour, we were walking above the clouds. We likely landed on cloud 9 :) Just as we started our descent, the first tourists sailed up in a chair lift - the alternate way to visit Sareiserjoch. Personally, I believe that doing this 6.2 Km loop hike, presents nature lovers with a more intimate experience of the mountains. Hikes always inspire the kind of wonder that makes my feet sore and the heart soar. So, if I am not constrained by time/physical limitations, I always choose to go on one - and I highly recommend this moderate hike, with a 400m elevation gain.
We also saved 22eur - the round-trip price for the chair lift tickets and part of it went straight into a well-deserved meal of Fondue, made with the local Gruyère cheese - Moooooo.
DIY
HOW TO GET TO LIECHTENSTEIN
Since Liechtenstein doesn't have an airport of its own, the easiest way to visit is by flying into Zurich in Switzerland and taking the public transport to Vaduz. There are two parts to this option - a train ride from Zurich to Sargans in Switzerland and Sargans to Vaduz by bus, that leaves just outside the Sargans train station. In Vaduz, you get off at the "Vaduz Post" bus-stop and the entire journey takes upto 2 hours - one way, including changes. The other option is to rent a car and drive, which is less time-consuming.
HOW MANY DAYS TO SPEND
There are several interesting things to do, and I suggest spending an entire weekend in the country, with just enough time to catch the transport back to Zurich and onwards to the airport, per your flight times out of Zurich (Best to fly out on a late evening flight). We planned our time in and out of Vaduz according to the times listed on the "public transport" option under google maps and booked the train journeys in advance on Trainline (https://www.thetrainline.com/). You could also directly book on the Swiss railways website (https://www.sbb.ch/en). The tickets for the bus can be bought onboard, from the driver and cost about 7CHF per way. Most drivers speak enough English, and you can trust Translate to come to your rescue, otherwise. Best to carry some Swiss Francs, if coming from outside the EU, to avoid currency conversion hassles. For those carrying a European debit card, it's no problem.
THINGS TO DO
1.Explore Vaduz on foot and stop as you like, to admire landmarks like the Vaduz Castle and Cathedral.
2.Visit the Alte-Rhinebrucke
This is the last standing wooden bridge for cyclists and pedestrians over the Rhine valley. You literally walk from Vaduz in Liechtenstein to Sveevelen in Switzerland when you cross the bridge. Now how often do we cross international borders by walking across a bridge that is 140-odd meters long!? With the Alps in the surrounding area, and the gush of the Rhine below, it's a lovely experience. The view of the Vaduz castle, a tiny speck on the opposite side, after you cross over, is spectacular :) It's a great place to hang out and take your time to observe all the man made and natural wonders in one of the world's smallest countries!
3.Visit the Prince's treasury and vineyard.
The Monarchy still plays an important role in governing this little country and although, it's not possible to visit the Liechtenstein Prince's castle, it is possible to visit his Treasury and Vineyard. The treasury has many of the prince’s collections on display and is a unique experience within a high security vault. Notable among them are a replica of his crown and the moon rock gifted by the USA for Balzers AG (a local firm), having played a part in the coating of the Apollo 11 spacecraft. Besides these, the intricately carved Russian Easter eggs, and the impressive philately are also worthy of one's attention. The Treasury ticket is priced at 8 CHF.
The Prince's vineyards are located right below his castle and the scenery around is spectacular. Since we went in September, we also got to try some of the juiciest grapes I have ever had, FOR FREE!
4.Don't forget to get your passport stamped at the Liechtenstein Tourist Center.
There is no passport control within the Schengen zone. The freedom of movement and reduced transit are great, but I have seen more than one friend feel disappointed when there's no proof of their visit. Liechtenstein is one of the few countries to stamp your passport for a small fee of 3 CHF, and it's a great souvenir to take back home :)
5.Make sure to check the events calendar or check with the tourism center upon arrival for any special events, like local festivals/art performances.
6.Go hiking in Malbun and learn about falconry from the locals.
Malbun is a ski town in winter and has plenty of trails to hike, besides the Panoramaweg, in summer. The Galina Hotel and Falknerei run the 'Birds of Prey' show on certain days of the week, for a nominal fee, during lunchtime. Local Falconer Norman Vögeli explains his relationship with his bird companions in German only, but as Norman displays a few acts, appreciation for the comradery between the birds and their master, comes naturally.
WHERE TO STAY
We stayed the first night in Zurich, in Gasthaus 210 and the 2nd night at The Galina Hotel and Falknerei, in Malbun. Malbun being a ski resort, is quite pricey and doesn't have any hostels, but one night's stay split between the 2 of us, still worked out reasonably. And with that, I hope you will give Liechtenstein a chance to fill a page in your travel diary!
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