DEC '19
My visit to Poprad in Slovakia from Krakow in Poland was merely to make use of a flix bus voucher that was about to expire in a few months. At the time, Slovakia wasn't even on my bucket list, but I am glad for adding it - Especially after arriving in Poprad well past mid-night on a snowy christmas day, to be picked up by the kindest hosts. The next morning, I took the mountain train to the frozen Štrbské lake, hiked a bit in the region, and drank lots of hot garlic soup.
That same evening, Flixbus brought me from Poprad to Zdiar, where I spent 2 days. In this mountain village by the Polish border, time was abided by the window of my dorm bed in the Ginger Monkey hostel, with the mountains as my muse. So I wrote a little something about winters, that you can read below.
.
.
Thick snow, makes the earth swell.
They say, winter casts a spell.
'Evil or magical?'
The doubt won't quell.
.
.
Winter and its mood,
Are an interlude
Between autumn and spring.
When nature buries everything.
In a cloak of white.
Not out of spite,
But to warm by a fireplace,
Her children, emaciated by the year's race.
.
.
To wrap them in a rug,
And a longer sleep's hug.
To remind them to dream again
In a state of rest, and envision
Yet another year's mission.
.
.
Icy outside,
But mellows the inside
With the renewed pride,
Of letting a dream guide
A purposeful next stride.
.
.
They said, winter casts a spell.
A magical one, now who can't tell!
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Given the uncertainty of weather in winters, I had no specific agenda. Playing spontaneous games of catch with Wally the dog and monopoly with hostel inmates from the USA, Australia, and many other countries became the highlight. Contentment was also found in cooking a meal in the Ginger Monkey hostel kitchen that is always well stocked for days like these, when snow storms can leave you snowed in! So on my last day in Slovakia and a sunny one at that, I was finally able to make the most of my stay. I went sledging, took Wally out for a stroll, and learnt the basics of skiing from Danka, who makes her living as a ski instructor and works evening shifts at a Pizza place in winters to go travelling in summers! Ah, what cozy encounters and memories of the sweater weather :')
TRAVEL TIPS
HOW TO GET AROUND
This blog is focused on staying in the villages of Poprad and Zdiar, at the foothills of the Tatra mountains. Trains run regularly from Poprad to a number of other mountain villages and the Štrbské Pleso ski resort. Return tickets can be bought at the Poprad train station. The price was less than 10eur in Dec '19!
Flix bus connects the villages of Poprad and Zdiar. It is best to purchase tickets in advance for cheaper prices!
WHERE TO STAY
In Poprad, I stayed at a family run guest house called Apartman's CVC for 2 nights. And
in Zdiar, I spent 2 nights at the Ginger Monkey Hostel.
I highly recommend both for their value for money, hospitality, and location!
WHAT TO DO
Take the scenic train ride from Poprad to the Štrbské Pleso ski resort.
You can walk around or on the frozen lake and binge on Slovak cuisine, in the cafes or hotels nearby. Must try: Garlic soup and Bryndzove halusky with a dizzyingly addictive dash of sheep cheese, at Furkotka cafe.
3. Hike to the Skok waterfall, that is frozen in winters. The hike isn't very well signposted, but you will find a lot of locals heading out there. So just creepily follow them and with a "Dobry den" (Slovak for "good day"), and you can ask for directions when needed :P On a serious note, this hike is quite tricky in winters, so remember to exercise caution. Especially if the weather starts to get worse (I had to turn back after covering 3/4th of the trail). However the trail is scenic and the views of the craggy, snow capped Tatra mountains are amazing, so all the hiking wasn't in vain!
4. The Ginger Monkey Hostel in Zdiar is great for solo trippers, as it is quite popular with backpackers. You can take Wally the dog out for a walk or curl up with Kevin the cat by a window, and gaze at the mountains.
5. Take a walk on the forest route along Monkova Dolina and try sledging on the snow hill around the corner. You can rent sledges and overalls for free at the hostel.
6. Take a beginner ski lesson at the Zdiar Strednica ski resort. (Perhaps the cheapest in Europe, at 39eur for a 2hr lesson)
Make way for the klutzy-glitzy ski beginner please!
Most importantly, think of this as a perfect winter retreat. Both Poprad and Zdiar are a gateway to the Tatra mounains, and simply waking up to take a walk around these towns, leads you to scenic views of snow-covered mountains and postcard sights, that you will cherish for a lifetime :)
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