An upbringing in a Tamil Brahmin household has moulded my god-fearing nature and an uncanny trust in the Almighty's ability to answer prayers. Yet having been born in the 90s, the privilege of questioning beliefs drew boundaries to my faith in the supernatural when adults of the family couldn't offer convincing theories. Theology therefore, has always been a topic of interest-pondered over, right from the times when mytholigical tales were narrated by my grandmother. And so, upon arrival in Jordan, it's role in the world's most widely practiced religions-Christianity and Islam, were a revelation that affected the senses more deeply than the natural and architectural beauty around!
The history of Jordan doesn't curb in religions. Fascinating theories revolve around the major attraction-The Treasury of Petra or Al Khazaneh. Quoting one of the famous ones-"The architectural details like the Assyrian triangles, the Egyptian urn, the Roman columns and so on, hint at the Nabaetean trade tactic-a welcome extended to open connections with the great empires in Persia, Egypt, and Rome". Ever since the discovery of 3 royal tombs behind this monolithic marvel in 2004, the treasury is also surmised to be a heritage burial site. Petra in Greek, translates literally to 'rock'; a misnomer, especially when you gaze at the marvels of the the rose red city that awaits you at the end of the Bab-el-Siq, the entrance to Petra. There is much to be unearthed here, like Petra itself, which remained hidden within the folds of a canyon until its rediscovery in 1812. Owing to exceptional engineering abilities, the Nabaetians who inhabited Petra around 1000BC, tamed the flooding Siq with a dam, built tunnels and aquaducts to channel rain water, and stored them in cisterns well before the Greeks and Romans. Although keen on bringing Petra to flourish as a caravan city with influences from all over the world, the Nabaeteans were quite protective of their clan's stronghold here. As evinced by the inscriptions found in Wadi Rum, it is seen that the smart Nabaeteans used symbology to help their kin (only) to locate necessities like desert springs, which discouraged outsiders from settling there. (Here in the picture, the distance between the feet in the inscription is said to translate to one's proximity to desert spring.)
The Nabaeteans were also quite religious in nature. Their high place of sacrifice offers staggering views of their royal tombs that were once full of wealth, as the inhabitants, once full of health :P Offerings were made here to unknown deities, the evidences of which are believed to be the many square blocks and inscriptions along the canyon walls, also shedding light on the worship of a certain Goddess-Dushara. Along with the dietie's grace, goods like Frankinscence and Myrh, which tourists buy wholeheartedly in Petra even today, made the Nabaetean kingdom a wealthy one. However, with the last Nabaeteans leaving after a peaceful surrender to the Romans, Petra was left concealed from foreign eyes for a good 900 years.
Monopolised by the Beduoins of the Middle East until its rediscovery by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt (who convinced one of the Bedouins to lead him here), the self-proclaimed landlords are infamous in history, for looting the riches of Petra. The bullet marks that cover the facade of the treasury, are indicative of the Bedouins trying to steal the valuable grave goods that are believed to be buried here, along with a Nabaetean pharaoh. Yet after a personal encounter, it was hard to believe that the Bedouins are a cunning lot.
Having been warned by the guide about their persistence in extracting money from tourists, I naturally approached a souvenir seller with well-rehearsed bargaining skills. I could do little to keep away from the exquisite turquoise earring collection on display. While browsing, when asked, "You from Iindia?", I acknowledged with a nod. No further questions were asked, no sales pitches made. In fact, a discount was profered even without asking-"For you, I make 2 for 5jd". Rather excitedly, 2 pairs were selected and a 5jd note was extended with a thank you. This was met by a confused look. "10jd for 4"-was the correct price, as was quoted for 2 earrings, not a pair. When the realization dawned simultaneously and one pair returned half-heartedly, the seller's face fell more than the buyer's, but not for the 5jd that was lost. "Hey Iindia. Sorry. Not 4 for 5 jd". There was no misunderstanding this sincere explanation. Perhaps I was fortunate to come by this exceptionally kind-hearted shopkeeper. But the only thing that tugged at the heart's strings more than the Beduoin flute was their unfeigned nature. Since its rediscovery and an agreement with the Government about benefiting from tourism, the Bedouins run the show here-by taking you on camel or donkey rides and selling souvenirs.
Others sustain on the income made from tourism in the Wadi Rum desert. Sleeping under constellations in their open camps, cooking the 'Zarb' or meal inside a sand oven and digesting it with an hour of Debka (a traditional dance form), is the best way to do it the Beduoin way! The fear of the hangover that the end of my time in Jordan was about to bring, legit made me wish that the dead sea should sink me instead of keeping me afloat :P But the mineral-rich mud on its shore, which is a natural free spa relaxed the nerves enough to go back to life's mundane routine! :)
A BRIEF HISTORY OF MODERN RELIGIONS IN JORDAN
The original name given to the 'Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan' was Hashemite Kingdom of Trans-Jordan. 'Hashemite' is the Arab dynasty (believed to be of the descendants of Prophet Mohammad) that fought the Ottomans to establish an Arab state. The 'trans' was lost after the Jewish state of Israel captured Palestine on the West Bank during the Arab-Israeli war. Yet both sides are undisputedly holy. The East Bank of river Jordan is where Jesus is said to have been baptized in the Bible. And on the West bank, Palestine/Israel (?)-the dilemma and the reason for never ending wars, is home to Jerusalem where the Prophet is said to have ascended to heaven and Jesus, born.
Judaism, Islam and Christianity are so closely knit in their beliefs, that they are merely said to be the outcome of administrative ambitions! Substantiating this, are the roots-starting in the Pagan beliefs of the Greek empire, which established major settlements in the Jordanian towns of Jerash, Um Quais and Amman. This was followed by a subjugation to the Romans who expanded the kingdom with shared faith in Pagan deities like Zeus, Artemis and Hercules-all of which were defaced with the rise of Christianity in the West, which strictly prohibited idol worship. Lost was the cause of the Roman Empire against this aggressive rise, when the new religion was finally accepted by the Byzantine empire in the East. All this, until Islam slithered in to claim a place in the form of the Muslim rule that has influenced Jordan since the 7th century AD.
Although easy to miss amid the religious hullabaloo, unity is to be strongly felt-In the Churches that house a Mulsim prayer room, the Mt. Nebo where Moses, an icon in all three religions is believed to have died, and the mosaic workshops in the Christian majority town of Madaba, supporting the cause of disabled artists (irrespective of religion). Deciphering a sign from the inconspicuous supreme now, are we? Not withstanding the utter disbelief of the fact that the God they all believed in, is actually watching! As if to burn down such thoughts, the candles inside a church sparked a tad bit brighter, like the Hindu lamps. Could some roots also be missing? :)
DIY ITINERARY
DAY 1
a. JERASH AND UM-QAIS
-It is easy to spend an entire day walking the Cardos, marvelling at the gargantuan Greco-Roman ruins, hippodromes and amphitheatres in Jerash that have withstood the ravages of time, beyond after 3 massive earthquakes that rocked the area at different points in history!
-Um Qais, like Jerash was another Greco-Roman settlement and an archaelogical site, which exhibits excavations of defaced Pagan statues that depict the fall of the Roman empire, eventually leading to the rise of Christianity. The site also boasts views towards the Golan hieghts-the disputed region between Jordan, Israel, and Palestine.
DAY 2
a. AMMAN, MOUNT NEBO, AND MADABA
Pray to the Greek Gods at the Amman Citadel for a peaceful holiday hangover and also get some retail therapy at Madaba's market. But don't empty your wallet yet. Not until Petra :P
PS: Madaba surely seemed like the cheapest place to shop in the whole of Jordan.
PPS: Don't forget to browse through their Mosaic collections.
b.PETRA BY NIGHT
It is worthwhile to endure this mile long hike through the canyon, guided only by the light of the stars. Watching Petra light up is an unusual experience-a bright end to a day even after darkness falls!
DAY 3
a. Explore Petra, discover all the famous views (from the Siq, one of the treasury from the top and opposite side etc.) and scan the bazaar to take back a favourite souvenir (or two or three :P)
b.Hike the trail opposite the treasury for epic views from the top
c. Hike the 860-steps trail to the Ad Deir monastery.
DAY 4
a.PETRA
-Hike the trail to the high place of sacrifice early in the morning.
b. WADI RUM
-Hold your rum :P and walk every edge to scan the endless stretch of desert.
Here are a few panorama shots of Wadi Rum!
-Stop at one of the Crusader castles like the AlKarak, which offers an unparalleled view of the arid desert around. It's also a spectacular representation of the constant power struggle between the Muslim and Christian powers. To see Arabic inscriptions chiseled on a medieval castle's walls is a rare sight. The inscriptions also imply why Arabic is written from right to left. Before adopting a culture of script writing, inscriptions were chiseled into walls and plaques made of wood/stone. Since it is easier to chisel in the direction, right to left, Arabic adopted its present day form.
-Piggy back on dune buggies, grin wider than the camels and wave to the setting sun!
DAY 5
a. DEAD SEA
Just let your worries float free, but don't let the sea with the highest concentration of salt burn your eyes. There is still so much of the world left to see!
b. Indulge in a serene sunset!
c. Lastly, don't leave without indulging on a Jordanian food platter of Labneh, Tabouleh, hummus, felafel and lime-mint!
