"If what is priceless can't be sold, mustn't nature be precious more than gold?". These were my first thoughts after taking off, away from the panic-attack which was a last-minute boarding stint. I usually leave enough time to get to airports as I blunder while trying to rush things. But in spite of all precautions we take, Murphy's law prevails! During the first leg of the journey to the Lofoten islands, when I was required to transfer in Oslo, my flight from London got delayed and there were a bare 25 minutes to clear customs and security. To top it, the gate display on the screens (a-21) conflicted the announcement made on the first flight for a-10 passengers to Bodo, the gateway to Lofoten.
So merely 15 minutes before take-off, well past the boarding time, I was still running about airport gates to find out where exactly I could board. To further the confusion was an airport staff's speculation and concerned gesture towards an empty desk at gate a-15. Obviously it was too late and THIS, was THE MOMENT. The countdown for take-off had begun and I decided to try my last chance at making it by walking up to a-10, where a lone attendant stood, eyebrows raised questioningly at "Ms. Venkatesh?", who thought she had missed her flight :P But right then she directed me to enter and I couldn't recall another moment in my life when I had acted sensibly when panic-stricken. Albeit, there wasn't much time to dwell on this accomplishment because, "boarding complete" and it was time to relish the views of the Norwegian fjords from above. Even at 11:30 pm, sunlight glittered like gold on the sea below. Also mid-night was no time to sleep in this land of the mid-night sun, but to dream with my eyes wide open :)
Arriving in Lofoten though, brought with it many different realizations. Walking away from the extremities of digital science and nature was one. Excited as I was by the prospect of having 24 hours of sunlight, this one adventure wasn't half as easy-breezy as the islands. With this advantage of summer, a much sought-after privilege during European winters, I decided to make the most of it by setting-off on a ferry ride after two flights to arrive in the Lofoten islands at 3:30 am! But having more hours to spend outdoors isn't always very pleasant, especially when sleep deprived. There were many to kill before I could even request a check-in and the long walk from the ferry port to town left me exhausted. (Well at least the Norwegians know how to sleep under dazzling sunlight, if not me. So I didn't expect them to run public transport during the odd hours!) With nowhere else to go, I decided to sleep in one of the cute cabins that serve as a local bus-stop. Trust Norway to be a safe-haven for solo-travellers!
Never felt happier waking up. It was finally 8 am and a reasonable time to dial the guest house for an early check-in, as many hotels allow this. Alas, being extraordinarily digitized, they could only send out hourly OTPs past regular check-in time :/ I had no idea how I was going to stay put until afternoon because the wee hours had passed and it wasn't the best idea to spend any longer in my 'temporary accommodation'. Nevertheless the Norwegian wilderness offered great company and I set-off to hike the nearby Reinebringen hill which was crumbling under a fatigue, more collossal than my own. It was impossible to find the trail even after 3 attempts, the cause of which became known to me when I arrived back promptly to check-in at 2 pm, because buoy, I was desperately in need of some rest!
Back in the hotel which was safe-guarded by the OTP that allowed guests to retrieve a key from a safe box to open the main door and unlock their room, it seemed unnecessary to have such heights of digitization where the possibility of breaking-in is as remote as the island itself! Add to this, the Norwegian habit of carrying a Mattepacke (packed lunch) everywhere, next day's breakfast too, was set aside in a dainty basket inside the fridge, with my room number on it. It honestly felt like being transported to a future that is not far away. In those moments of disconcertedness, the warmth of a human voice and the regularity in nature's cycles like day and night became evident. Fortunately though, in walked another girl with a huge backpack with who, I could get chatty. But the 36 year old from Montreal who had backpacked through New Zealand and was now, in Europe on travel visas permitting work, left me feeling dismal-more than the Reinebringen that would not let me conquer it, earlier that day. She wasn't even going to attempt the famous hike because as unknown to enthusiastic hikers like me, it has been bearing our weight without any complaints. With the number of local tourists seeking an adventure having grown exponentially in the last few years, the steep, rocky trail leading up to the 450-odd meter 'view-point' is battered from landslides caused by overuse. As a measure of responsibility, the municipality of the islands warns tourists of taking the path up at their own risk and requests donors to step forward to re-establish the trail. This level of responsibility towards nature, it seems is harder than just climbing the Reinebringen!
However, Lofoten being picturesque all around, there was no need to go hiking. Even a walk in its tiny hamlets that are subject to unpredictable weather was impressive enough. With sod-roofed houses and conventional ways of fishing still in practice, it was hard to let the disappointing factors overshadow the enthusiasm of this chance to unwind by strolling in the prevalent shadow of the Viking era.
After a day in the Lofoten islands and a night in Bodo (or wait day?), it was time to head to Stavanger. Spending 4 summer days in Norway was equal to 8 days because where is the night?!
Stavanger is one of the main touristy towns where many Viking families migrated for a better lifestyle long ago with their sod-roofed houses of log, that could be dismantled easily enough. The original ones are preserved in Gamle Stavanger, a great neighbourhood to visit when in town. After the much-needed relaxed exploring over the first couple days, I was all set for the arduous hikes up the famed pulpit rock and Kjeragbolten on the last 3 days. Although its natural beauty had me transfixed throughout, I had never felt more ready to return to the familiarity of my life back in London! Dear Norway, you sure had it your way.
PS: Don't forget to pack a Mattepacke of brown cheese and Norwegian waffles during a visit to Kjerag or Pulpit, because there ain't no cafes or shops in those sky high picnic spots!
DIY TIPS
WHAT ARE THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS?
Lofoten is an archipelago, is home to 7 principal islands, and one can never get enough of the dramatic scenery around. Renting a car and driving around is perhaps the easiest way to explore the Lofoten islands. However for enthu cutlets like myself, who can't drive and still want to experience the solitude in this remote corner of Norway, I recommend the following itinerary. I have to warn you, this is quite a hike/walk-intensive itinerary. Someday, I would love to spend a long vacation hiking in different regions in Lofoten, but for now here's a time-crunched, budget-friendly first-timer's guide to Lofoten! If you are looking to focus a long vacation entirely on Lofoten, I recommend looking up more content about the area, with my blog as the starting point.
DAY 1, DAY 2, and DAY 3
Spend DAY 1-2 in Lofoten, followed by DAY 3 in Bodo.
1. LOFOTEN ISLANDS
Bodo is the gateway to the Lofoten islands and frequent bus services operate between Bodo airport and the habour, where you can take the ferry to Moskenes, one of the three islands connected to Bodo mainland, by ferry. Moskenes is the closest of the three, and takes about 4hrs to reach. I planned my visit during the shoulder season in May, and booked my ferry tickets in advance. The ferry though, was quite empty. I still recommend booking in advance, especially if visiting during the high tourist seasons-summers and winters. The mid-night ferry from Bodo arrives in Moskenes at an odd 3:30-4am, and the first public buses on the island don't operate until 7-8 am. The public buses connect the many villages in Moskenes to the harbour. Given its proximity to the harbour on foot, I had booked my stay in Reine. However, there is no pedestrian walkway connecting the harbour to any of the villages. I walked all the way to Reine along the E10 highway for about 5 Km, and although it is pleasant to walk on a route that is scenic along quite a few stretches, it's a bit nerve wracking to walk beside zooming vehicles. Not too many during the wee hours, but still! Upon arrival in Reine, I explored Reine on foot and attempted to hike the Reinbringen, before finally checking into my BnB, in the afternoon.
The next day I hiked to and from Hamnoy, before taking the ferry back to Bodo. This is another very scenic route, and winds past a nice beach and some dried fish farms (quite a nauseating display, to be honest)! The entire walk takes about 2.5hrs to complete. Throughout my time in the Lofoten, I used the google maps' car routes as reference for my "walks". But in all, I saw quite a bit of the breathtaking scenery that the Lofoten islands are known for!
STAY OPTION: Lofoten Bed & Breakfast Reine - Rooms & Apartments
2. BODO
Back in Bodo, I did a hike from the town center to Keiservarden, under the mid-night sun, after arriving back from Moskenes and sleeping the day away. Keiservaden is a mountain plateau, rising 366m above the sea level and the hike from and back to Bodo town center, takes about 2.5hrs, with a few stops. My body clock was out of whack, but what a unique experience it is, to wake up at any hour, and go hiking.
STAY OPTION: Bodø Hostel & Motel
DAY 4 and DAY 5
Fly from Bodo to Stavanger. If visiting in summer, the days are long, so the hike to Pulpit rock can be covered on the same day that you are flying in. However, if the flight options are limited, I suggest exploring Stavanger town and Gamle Stavanger on the day of arrival and hiking to Pulpit rock, the following day. Buses to Kjeragbolten run only in summer (till September end). In fact it is advised not to hike here in winter. I recommend spending DAYS 4-7 in Stavanger for a leisurely experience or only taking a late night flight out from Stavanger on DAY 6, after your hike to Kjeragbolten.
PULPIT ROCK VISIT FROM STAVANGER
From the ferry terminal in Stavanger, take the ferry to Tau, and the local bus from outside the ferry terminal in Tau to the Pulpit rock mountain lodge, where you commence your hike. The ferry operates once every 2-3 hours, and the bus takes about 30 minutes to reach the trail head. Taxis run all year round between Tau ferry terminal and the trail head, but the cost is significantly high. Note that this bus only runs in high season, from April to September. The entire loop trail is about 8 Km long, and takes about 4-5hrs to complete. It is relatively easier compared to Kjeragbolten and the real trouble lies with the gigantic mosquitoes. So wear and carry a repellant to avoid being forced to complete the trail quickly, like I was.
KJERAGBOLTEN VISIT FROM STAVANGER
I booked a ticket with one of the bus companies that operate tours from Stavanger. This is not a guided hike, and they only assist with the to and fro journey between Stavanger and the trail head in Kjerag. However, it is easy to befriend solo trippers on the long, scenic bus journey and complete the hike together. I met two solo trippers, a German girl and a Brit boy, and the 3 of us had a ball, hiking together and back (on time). Make sure to book yourself on the first trip of the day and back on the last bus, to have enough time to complete this rather arduous hike. I also suggest booking online, in advance, as places tend to fill up quite quickly in high season. Here's the link to the website where I booked my tickets for the bus journey: https://gofjords.com/no
STAY OPTION: Stavanger St Svithun Vandrerhjem
With that, I will wrap up this blog post, hoping that you will have some very memorable adventures in Norway, the most beautiful slice of Scandinavia.
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