By the end of November, almost all of Europe is studded with spirited Christmas markets, gleaming fairy lights, and seasonal decor!
A pretty painting of the same square when empty, but the x-MAD cheer is something to experience!
SO WHY POLAND?
I wanted to guarantee myself a dreamy white xmas experience. So I decided to book my tickets based on the weather forecast. To my delight, 3 weeks before x-mas '18, most of Eastern Europe was already quilted in layers of white and the flights to Poland were much cheaper than anywhere else. So, off I went to make merry in Poland!
Cute decor!
HOW TO GET AROUND
The x-mas markets and old towns in both Warsaw and Wroclaw were within walking distance of the main train stations. The names of both main stations are listed below and the travel time between them is approximately 4 hours by train.
a. Wroclaw main station (Wrocław Główny station)
b. Warsaw main station (Warszawa Centralna station)
I bought tickets online here: https://www.intercity.pl/en/
As such, English is not very voluntarily spoken in Poland and google maps too, displays names of most stations in Polish. So I would advise looking up schedules for the connections from Warsaw Chopin Airport (since this was my entry point) to Wroclaw, and likewise from Wroclaw to Warsaw, and finally from Warsaw to the airport, before hand. Having the schedule in hand, gave me the flexibility to plan my time in both towns accordingly.
Since I was flying into and out of Warsaw by late evening flights, I decided to spend Saturday in Wroclaw and Sunday in Warsaw. For late night arrivals, my accommodation is generally an arrivals bench at the airport :'D So I didn't have an accommodation booked in Warsaw. However, in Wroclaw, I stayed the night at Absynt Hostel Wrocław. Once again, this was just about right to spend a night and have a quick wash, and it served my basic needs like cleanliness and safety!
The vibrant market square in Wroclaw!
WHAT TO DO IN WROCLAW AND WARSAW
My itinerary was simple. A weekend spent exploring two of Poland's old towns, Warsaw and Wroclaw, pronounced as Vroth-sw-awe-ff. Learn this well, unless you want to sound an absurd 'Raw-claw' to the locals, like I did. Besides exploring the christmas markets in both towns, I also joined a free walking tour in Vroth-sw-awe-ff. It was a nice way to gain some context on the present day surroundings and their transformation following the Middle Ages, world wars, and the Soviet eras. I would highly recommend combining a free walking tour with your visit to the x-mas markets. You can either book a spot with no charge online, before hand or join them at the time and meeting place mentioned on their website. https://www.guruwalk.com/ is a popular one to select from the different tours available, around the world. Free walking tour guides are usually natives. They know their city inside out and are extremely knowledgeable about both medieval and contemporary history. You are allowed to tip them after the tour, so don't forget to carry some Polish Złoty (equivalent of 10-12eur pp in local currency is reasonable). The guide's account of the plight of the Jews during the 2nd world war, while leading our group through the Jewish Quarters was especially moving. I always liked history in school, but these free walking tours totally transcend the experience of reading a book. They only spiked my interest in world history further, so give it a chance and see how you feel about it! Context can help you connect intimately even with the most mundane destinations.
Snow clad rooftops in Castle square, Warsaw.
POINTS OF INTEREST, WROCLAW
i. Some like the Jewish Quarters, evoked heartbreak, while others like the cute little dwarf statues peacefully demanding liberation from the totalitarian communist regime, were endearing.
ii. The gas lamp lighter had already lit the 58 lamps in Cathedral island, by the time I made it there. Yes, it is a legit profession in Wroclaw, as it happens to be one of the few places in the world that still use gas lamps, from times before Edison's light bulb lit up :P
The gas lamps, that Edison's bulbs snuffed out, everywhere but in Wroclaw!
iii. The love lock bridge on Cathedral island (Ostrów Tumski) was feverishly lit. Love lock bridges are found across most European old towns, that have a river flowing through them. It is believed that a lock with the lovers' names, when added to the bridge with the key thrown away in the river, will keep them love-locked forever. I sealed the deal with Mr. Travel Bug and we hope to last forever!
Fairy lights on the love lock bridge in Ostrów Tumski, Wroclaw.
Other than this, I was mostly under the spell cast by the x-mas cheer in the air! It was a dilemma to choose from the umpteen food and goodies stalls. As a result, I ended up traipsing the market square at least 3-4 times, before finally deciding to buy the souvenir that I wanted to take back. The next day spent browsing Warsaw's xmas stalls in the old town with roof tops clad in snow, was much chillier, and overnight rain had turned the cobble stoned paths quite slushy. Yet I enjoyed every bit of this slippery adventure that had neatly come wrapped as my x-mas present for 2018!
Wroclaw market square, at night!
POINTS OF INTEREST, WARSAW
All these points of interest in both towns are within walking distance.
i. The x-mas markets are just around the corner from the Warsaw Castle Square, where all the hum drum thrives!
ii. The Warsaw Barbican, a remnant of the 16th century defence network built around Warsaw, was destroyed in WW2 and was almost completely restored in an attempt to preserve the medieval historical relic.
Medieval defence walls surrounding Warsaw old town!
iii. The Palace of Culture and Sciences erected under Stalin's regime after WW2, starkly contrasts the medieval architecture at the Barbican.
iv. Don't forget to say hello to the mythical little mermaid of Warsaw, who is protecting the old town, ever since a few locals rescued her from the shackles of a daemon. I sensed an irony right there, but who knows!?
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KRAKOW
Horse carriages in Krakow!
In 2019 December, I had a brief stopover in Krakow, before continuing to Slovakia and Czech Republic for a winter vacation. So once again, I had the pleasure of exploring Poland's x-mas markets. The Krakow X-mas market is undoubtedly my favourite. The nativity scenes and the melodious xmas carols were the best that I have ever witnessed! My xmas haul from the Krakow market that included a hand crafted dragon pendant is quite a memorable one. It's the same mythical dragon whose cave lies in the Wawel hill, just outside the old town. So if I were to rate the markets in order, it would be Krakow, Wroclaw, and Warsaw. And with that, I shall wish you a merry x-mas and let you pick your choice.
The glorious St. Mary's Church in Krakow, that plays a 5-note Trumpet call, on the hour everyday, to honour of a bugle player, whose prolonged trumpet warning halted the Mongol invasion of Poland, in medieval times!
Krakow x-mas market. My favourite among the three!
HOW MUCH TO SPEND
In addition to transport, your main expenses will depend on the type of stay, and how much you spend in the x-mas fares and markets. But Poland is one of the cheapest European countries, so you can either choose to go crazy or take the miserly backpacker road like me :P I would suggest to select from the range of options near the city center on booking.com depending on your budget!
WHAT TO EAT
Here are some Polish delicacies to tease your tastebuds!
a. Oscypki or smoked, salted goat cheese!
b. Peiroggi, especially bought from one of the Bar Mlecznys (milk bars), a mark left behind by the USSR in the 19th century, when they established these food canteens to provide Polish food at subsidised rates, during the communist regime!
c. Sweet treats like cookies and chimney cake, from the x-MAD markets!
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